Step 3: Apply maintenance fertilizer You can skip this step if you are establishing the basic level this year. But each year thereafter, it is important that you apply maintenance fertilizer. It is usually applied in the spring before the soil is worked into a seedbed. It need not be worked deeply into the soil Ñ- the upper 3 to 5 inches will do. The purpose of this maintenance application is to replace the fertility you took off in the form of vegetables, flowers and crop residue the preceding year.
Again the question comes up: "How much of what kind of fertilizer should I use?" A mixed fertilizer is used for this maintenance application. A mixed fertilizer contains three elements: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. When you see a fertilizer bag with a combination of numbers such as 5-10-5, 12-12-12 or 6-24-24, you are dealing with mixed fertilizers. The first number tells how many pounds of nitrogen are in 100 pounds of the fertilizer. The middle number always refers to the pounds of phosphorus, and the last to the pounds of potassium per 100 pounds of the fertilizer.
Thus, for example, in every 100 pounds of a 5-10-5 fertilizer you buy, you get 5 pounds of nitrogen, 10 pounds of phosphorus, and 5 pounds of potassium. The mixed fertilizers most commonly sold are listed in Table 1. Check your bag of fertilizer and find the corresponding analysis in the table. The second column indicates the amount to use per 1,000 square feet of garden area. If the analysis on your bag is different from those listed, choose the analysis that is nearest to it, and use the rate indicated.
Table 1. Mixed fertilizer analysis Maintenance application: lbs/1,000 square feet Bagged types 6-24-24 6 12-12-12 6 13-13-13 6
Small package types 5-10-5 10 5-10-10 10 10-10-10 8
Step 4: Use starter fertilizer A starter fertilizer is a water-soluble fertilizer used in the transplant water. Phosphorus is the most important element needed in getting your transplants off to a good start. Select a water-soluble fertilizer with a high phosphorus content in relation to the nitrogen and potassium.
The best and most commonly available water-soluble fertilizers are 10-52-17, 8-32-16, 12-24-12, 15-30-15, and 13-26-13. Use any of them at the rate of two level tablespoons per gallon of water. Apply one cup of this solution around the roots of your plant after you place it in the hole.
Step 5: Sidedress with nitrogen The major portion of the nitrogen your plants use comes from three sources: (1) the breakdown of organic matter, (2) the yearly maintenance application of fertilizer and (3) the nitrogen sidedressings. Leafy vegetables need earlier sidedressings of high nitrogen than fruiting vegetables. Many vegetable crops benefit from additional nitrogen after they have made considerable growth, started to flower, or set their first fruits. Too much nitrogen before this time will delay maturity and reduce flowering and yields.
Until the plant starts fruiting or makes considerable growth, the first two sources of nitrogen supply enough. But afterward, the demand of the plant for nitrogen often exceeds that supplied by the first two sources and a nitrogen sidedressing is needed. Because vegetable crops vary so greatly in amounts and times of application of nitrogen sidedressings, Table 2 was developed for handy reference.
Unlike vegetable crops, many modern flowering annuals have been developed to flower early and are less influenced by high nitrogen levels early in the season. Cool-season annuals, such as pansies, that are set out early in the season when soils are cool will benefit from early nitrogen sidedressings. Warm-season annuals should receive a high nitrogen sidedressing four to six weeks after they have been set out and if the season is rainy or frequent irrigation is applied. For annuals that grow throughout the summer, an additional sidedressing after another four to six weeks can stimulate late-summer growth and flowering. For an organic source of nitrogen, blood meal provides about 12 percent nitrogen in a fairly quickly available form for sidedressing. Always water well directly after applying fertilizer sidedressings to plants.
Chart 1. Recommended nitrogen sidedressings. Crop Pounds per 100 ft. row1 Ammonium nitrate2 Time of application (Sprinkle the nitrogen fertilizer in the row middles and water in if rain not likely) Annual flowers 1 Four to six weeks after planting
Asparagus 2 Before growth begins in spring
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli 1 Three weeks after field transplanting
Cucumber, Cantaloupe 1 1. One week after blossoming begins 2. Three weeks later
Onions (mature) 1 One to two weeks after bulb formation starts
Peas and Beans 1 After heavy bloom and set of pods
Peppers, Eggplants 1 After first fruit sets
Potato 1.5 After tuber formation starts Spinach, Kale, Mustard and Turnip greens 1 When plants about one-third grown
Sweet Corn1. When plants are 8-10 inches tall 2. One week after tassels appear
Sweet potatoes, Watermelons, Carrots, Beets, Parships, Lettuce None Excessive amounts of nitrogen will reduce yields or lower quality or both. Side dressings of nitrogen not needed.
Tomato 1 1. One to two weeks before first tomato ripens 2. Two weeks after picking first ripe tomato 3. One month later.
1. A pint of ammonium nitrate weighs approximately one pound.
2. Other forms of nitrogen such as urea, calcium nitrate, and ammonium sulfate may be used on an equivalent nitrogen basis.
Step 6: Maintain organic matter Just as important as the chemical aspects of garden soil are its physical properties. Two major factors contribute to physical properties of your soil, type of soil, whether sandy or clay, and organic matter. You can't alter soil type much, but you can control organic matter. Sandy soils and most soils in the southern part of the state should contain 2 to 3 percent organic matter. Annual applications of organic matter are required to reach and maintain these levels. Use and application
For farm gardens, use animal manures and green manures; for town gardens, use peatmoss, leafmold, compost and, if available, animal manures. Peatmoss makes an excellent source of organic material for the small garden, but it is expensive to use on large gardens. Coarse types will provide the best soil conditioning.
To make a compost pile, gather all waste material, such as grass clippings, leaves, and plant refuse, and place in layers 6 to 8 inches deep. The pile can be as long as desired but should not be more than 5 feet wide and 5 feet high. Add a little soil and a handful of fertilizer to each layer as you build it up. Keep the pile moist. It will be ready in 6 months to a year. Animal manures are excellent. They should be well rotted, applied in the fall and plowed under. Weed seeds are the chief objection to using animal manures.
Peatmoss, compost or animal manure should be applied to the soil surface to a depth of about 2 inches, then worked in thoroughly.
Green manures are legumes or small grain crops that are plowed under while still in the green stage. Winter green manure crops include rye, wheat, barley and winter vetch. Summer green manure crops include Sudan grass, soybeans and cowpeas.
An excellent way to handle the organic matter problem on farms is to plant half of the garden to a winter green manure crop in September or early October, then put some well-rotted animal manure on the other half, fall plow it, and plant spring vegetables in this part. The following spring, turn under the green manure crop, and plant your summer vegetables. Rotate these areas each year. After turning under
