When you have poor soil, it is tempting to give up on the idea of planting anything in your yard. But take heart. There ARE solutions.

QUESTION: “Help! You have always been so helpful. I have poor soil (we are in region 8) and would like to plant most of my yard in a ground cover, for low maintenance as well as the poor soil problem. Is there any fast growing/spreading cover for such a problem yard? It would require several plants, I assume, to cover my yard even though it is not that large. Would something like heather or ground cover roses work? Please… any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.” – Sue

ANSWER: It sounds like you think you don’t have options, but you do. Last year, my wife Cheryl wrote an article on xeriscaping. You can find it at this Web address: http://cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com/2009/02/xeriscaping-after-such-extreme.html or, as it’s a rather long address, you can click on a link when you find this column at our Web site, www.landsteward.org It will give you the basics on xeriscaping.

If you’re unsure of what that means, xeriscaping refers to landscaping and gardening in ways that reduce or eliminate the need for supplemental irrigation. It is often popular in areas that do not have readily available supplies of fresh water. The emphasis is often on native and drought-tolerant shrubs, plants and ground cover. However, there is more to xeriscaping than merely planting for drought conditions. It has more to do with gardening efficiently so you save time, money, energy and water.

Some of Cheryl’s favorite plants for a xeriscape include: rosemary, sage, oregano, lavender, chives, thyme, Russian sage, yarrow, salvia, lamb’s ear, gaillardia, junipers, spiraea, lilac, daylily, honeysuckle, sedum, ameria, vitex, hibiscus (althea, rose of Sharon) and Siberian peashrub (caragana).

And yes, heather can be used as a ground cover. I have never used it in my garden, so I don’t have that kind of experience with it, but I have read articles where others did and they noted as long as you prune it back every 3 or 4 years, it performs nicely.

As regular readers know, I emphasize that healthy plants begin with healthy soil. Well-drained soil (that can absorb about one half inch of water or more per hour) will allow plants to put down deep roots that will feed on nutrients.

Sue says her soil is “poor” and as I mention above, there are plants that will do fine in that kind of environment. But if you are looking to include a greater variety of plants, building a healthy soil would be your best first step.

Adding the right kind of soil amendments will help correct drainage issues and create healthier soil. Composted organic material is a good soil amendment and provides a slow-release system of nutrients for plants.

Improved drainage and nutrient-rich plants become more low-maintenance as they may require less pruning and are less susceptible to disease and pest problems.

Cheryl and I have found a good organic product that increases the water holding capacity of the soil (which translates to less watering by you), and fights disease and virus by naturally building the immune system of the plant. It’s called Green Tek ECO and apparently the active ingredient in it is derived from crustaceans, the same material that the plant makes to improve its own immune system. It is also a great chelator and will make nutrients that may be tied up in the soil more available so it can actually help to detoxify the soil.

We’ve found that it tends to repel flying and soil-born insects and allows plant roots to increase in mass and depth. But best of all for people like Sue, it loosens and dramatically increases the water holding structure of the soil.

So if you have poor soil, check out Cheryl’s blog entry and read up on xeriscaping. It could be the answer you’re looking for.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org.